Wednesday 27 July 2011

#Llanymynech Cul-de-Sac Quarry - Thurs July 21st


"I won this jacket in a raffle"

Raarrrrrrrrrrr!

Thurs July 21st
Bit of a late evening start again and a big bit of wet stuff rules out Pontesford, so onto Llanymynech for the first time this year. As you exit from the tree line i always find that first view of Foreigner Wall quite intimidating, It's quiet but a few folks are trying its remaining routes. Looking for bit of potential shelter the forward party had headed down to Cul de Sac Quarry. So we went to join em.
Daymo and crew had already done 'Dream of White Horses not' and were now in fading light on the Trad wall with Gaz, Andy, Len & Matt doing Voila! & Merde!.
Deej and i moved onto the slightly overhanging sport wall opposite, http://www.sportsclimbs.co.uk/mainpages/clwyd/Llanymynech%20Cul-de-Sac%20Quarry.htm
Duhh... what were we thinking of starting on an 8a!!!
2. Back-Bee-Tubin (8a)
3. Little Weed (7c) *
The first bolts are quite high up and without a clipstick the first few moves are a tad difficult, we rammed in few bit of protection prior to the first clip. God its hard work and the a fine layer of dust imbedded in the horizontal cracks means your hand just thrash out, the whole dam wall needs a jetwash. We don't even manage the 2nd clip on either before calling it a day. Totally sapped from trying just two routes we move onto easier ground.
With just enough light left Deej urges me onto lead DoWHnot 6a, It's a freaky 15m traverse over the old tunnel opening which looks and feels exposed, but the holds are all there. Dodging the odd bat the difficult bit is remembering leave yourself a fairly long tail after your tie in at the anchor, this allows someone to grab it and guide you down when your lowered, save ripping your balls off on the barbed wire fence. Now dark, Deej seconds then leads for Len to Second.

Rare glimpse of a Deejmonkey






Just look at this mans knees





Though the evening has been balmy, Damian has insisted on wearing his new Rab Xenon jacket (available in 'Juicy Orange') throughout, this is because he won it in a competition and he has never won anything before, and it makes him feel happy. Back at the car he is now several pounds lighter.

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