Wednesday 29 February 2012

Sunday 26th February - Seniors Ridge, Glyder Fawr, Devils Kitchen




View from top of Seniors Ridge


Cneifion Arête, 2 small figures of climbers at the top

Snowdon from Glyder Fawr
Getting towards March now and with the temperatures this past week creeping up towards 17 degrees!!  I guess that’s the last of the snow for now.
Can’t believe the difference between this Sunday & the previous, no wander nature is confused.
Up the waterfall towards Bochlwyd and along the western shoulder of Y Gribin, The Cneifion Arête was getting a few visitors.
The cloud rolled over Bwlch-y-Ddwy-Glyder and spilled into Cwm Bochlwyd. Held back by the Snowdon range, it was levelling out around the 1000m contour, leaving the summits protruding. The hanging valley of Nameless Cwm is an awesome little spot, physically separated from the usual mountain traffic. We sat for a while and watched the climbers progress up the arête and then cut across the higher balcony to join the ridge.

Tuesday 21 February 2012

Quantitative Teasing

Down to 2 teacups so we bought some more, i feel this has led to less rigorous fiscal cleaning, and just more dirty cups

Pen yr Ole Wen - Sunday 19th Feb

How accurate are the met Office forecasts?
Logged onto the Met Office Mountain Forecast for Snowdonia around 7.30 Sunday morning, they suggested that it should clear up approx 3pm. My experience has been that the Met office’s classification of afternoon usually means about 5’o’clock. Let’s see how accurate they were going to be today.
A winter walk up the East ridge of Pen yr Ole Wen, we started off around 11am, most of the fresh snow was at the 600m contour, with the cloud hovering around 700m. With a thaw on, the swampy area of Afon Lloer was softening up nicely thank you. Once on the ridge the snow was a bit more stable, though not much depth in Hourglass or Broad gullies. On top of Pen yr Ole Wen there was the usual rind of ice cementing the stones and filling in the gaps. We continued onto Carnedd Dafydd then stopped for a quick bite & brew. It was now getting on 3pm, fair play, give or take a few minutes it started to clear. Descending by way of the spur back down to Ffynnon Lloer, the cloud carried on lifting and rendered some stunning  winter colours.



A friend Deej, had texted Saturday to say he was going up to ‘Crimpiau’ to finish off some sketches for a painting, I called him to see how he was getting on. Although rather cold, he was having to stop his watercolours from freezing by adding a drop of Gin. Apart from cold toes, Deej reckoned the light was of a classic quality. Quoting an observation allegedly attributed to Turner, ‘It's ffffecking brrrrilliant mate’.......... can’t wait to see the results.

Appologies, i know i have a tad overcooked the HDR, i'll fix it in the mix.

Wednesday 15 February 2012

Berghaus New Yeti Insulated Gaiters.....Like

Winter is nearly upon us  so might be worth revisiting my blog on the Berghaus Extreme Pro Insulated gaiters.
Notice reflective hem on velcro edges
Summer 2012 we tackled a few of the spectacular volcanoes in Ecuador. Most attempting the higher 6k summits use or rent Plastic Boots. I wanted to use my Sportiva Nep Ex on Cayambe and Cotopaxi. Bearing in mind the altitude, cold and the volcanoes propensity for unpredictable weather conditions i needed to supplement them with something better than standard gaiters. After considering other options in the previous blog, i eventually plumbed for the Berghaus Extreme Pro Insulated Yeti Gaiters. http://www.berghaus.com/yeti-extrem-pro-insulated-gaiter/421337.html
Summit on Cotopaxi
An astonishing piece of crevasse sculpture
So how did they perform? Well, pretty good i’d say. We had atrocious conditions on Cayambe, during the ascent of Cotopaxi a snow storm blew in from 2am till dawn. The insulated Yeti’s supplemented with PHD’s Alpamayohttp://www.phdesigns.co.uk/alpamayo-waterproof-salopettes salopettes made for a seamless barrier against the driven snow & ice.
Keeping your bottom half layers simple works well.  The day warmed up on the decent through the crevasse zone, the storm clouds cleared and the sun came out. Were they then too warm? i’d say no, if anything they kept my legs and feet in the goldilocks zone. If you want slightly more insulation, top up with some thicker footbeds.
Small crevasse jump
Back down at the refuge my boots were dry with no sign of any damp, I’d not noticed any cold discomfort during the climb, and all my toes looked the right colour. So, If you don’t want to go to the expense of buying plastics and just want to beef up your leather B2’s or B3’s then the addition of insulated Yeti’s are just right mix. You likely ending up with something akin to the Scarpa Phantom 6000 etc. The best thing is your trusted B2/B3’s leather boots probably fit like a glove so there is little chance of chaffing or rubbing you might get from unfamiliar plastics.

Would they be too warm for the UK?
For winter day trips where your continually moving I’d say probably yes. However if you’re intent on something like a wandering sojourn through the Lairig Ghru in deep winter, then they might be just the shortbread. For any semi static activity i.e. photography or wildlife watching then again they may come into their own. The big front Velcro grab flap is also brilliant if you’re wearing gloves.

Are they still a bu**er to fit? yes but you get used to it, like fitting bike tyre, just don’t use your bestest table spoons.

Previous post... 15th Feb 2012
I’ve been looking to beef up the warmth of my Nep Ex’s for my Leggies and Footies for a trip to the Andes this summer (Can you see what i’ve done there).

Yeti Insulated

I had thought the ‘Below 40 K2 overboot’ to be the solution. But I’ve just noticed The new ‘Berghaus Yeti Insulated Gaiters’ Hmmmmmmm nice
New Yeti
40 Below K2 overboot
With the 40 below’s you can only wear them with crampons but you do get the critical footbed insulation. On mixed terrain at altitude i just don’t fancy taking them on and off.
With the New Yeti insulated gaiter it looks like you get the boot and leg warmth but obviously not the footbed. I’m thinking, along with the Yeti insulated gaiter, add some thermal insoles, and i will get the best of both worlds. I know i might be disappointed but they are even claiming that they are easier to fit than the old ones!!

Just getting feedback that they are not too easy to get hold of at the moment, Berghaus expecting a shipment in Late Feb


Tuesday 14 February 2012

The Dragon of Hebog - Sunday 12th Feb

A grey Sunday and the Welsh mist starts to play with your mind, Wales are playing Scotland in the 6 nations and the roads go quiet around Beddgelert. I get a curious feeling that things are quite what they appear to be. Sitting quietly on a rock below Hebog, Y Ddraig Goch, a dragon? only a tree, or a good omen.


Wednesday 8 February 2012

Nicht Banane Gully (Banana Gully not)

Tuesday 31st Jan

Idwal panorama about 9.30am Tues 31st Jan 2012


Grrrr 1

Finally some snow came to North Wales at the end of January. Sunday 29th was pretty awful up there but the Monday looked good on the Oggie web cam. Time to make a move, an early start on Tuesday, after grabbing some breky Deej and I headed up towards the Y Garn. The previous couple of nights had been quite cold and most of the ground just above Ogwen was frozen. Only the most stubbornly boggy areas held a surprise for idle feet. We headed up the main path to the NE ridge, the snow was powdery and had drifted to about 2 or 3 ft in places making progress towards Llyn Clyd slower than normal. After a few disappearing acts we decided rather than struggling on round the back of the lake we would head up from where we were and join Banana Gully about half way. Of all the glorious sunny days of last week, I had to pick the Tuesday, no.... I did have to pick it as it was the least busy day at work. Tuesday was getting cloudier, moodier & broodier, the visibility was poor but Banana Gully was a reasonably straightforward Grade 1 route so we carried on. Keep heading left until you hit a band of rock... plod, plod then head up.
Grrr 2

Deej doing his best Simpson

Top of Easy Gully

The snow had covered just about everything so features were pretty much non existent. We ended up coming out just to the right of the route. The spindrift was now whipping up for a real face stinger, so we battened down before topping out. With not unfamiliar White out conditions, and the edge of the ridge barely visible we headed for the summit and a brew. Not bad, a nice day when the clouds cleared.  With rogue ice crystals starting to find there way up your sleeves it was back down towards Foel Goch to have a look at Easy Gully, another pleasant Grade 1. Although its a dam shame to break its lines, there is something compelling about a virgin cornice, it's the frozen seventh wave. Having taken days to build, there you go we've trashed it in ten minutes:(













 









Ogwen - Y Garn, Elidir Fawr & Y Llymllwyd Ridge

Route -  Ogwen - Y Garn, Elidir Fawr & Y Llymllwyd Ridge Another classic mountain walk, taking in 2 of the Welsh 3,000 peaks, with...