#Llanymynech Cul-de-Sac Quarry - Thurs July 21st



"I won this jacket in a raffle"



Raarrrrrrrrrrr!



Thurs July 21st

Bit of a late evening start again and a big bit of wet stuff rules out Pontesford, so onto Llanymynech for the first time this year. As you exit from the tree line i always find that first view of Foreigner Wall quite intimidating, It's quiet but a few folks are trying its remaining routes. Looking for bit of potential shelter the forward party had headed down to Cul de Sac Quarry. So we went to join em.

Daymo and crew had already done 'Dream of White Horses not' and were now in fading light on the Trad wall with Gaz, Andy, Len & Matt doing Voila! & Merde!.

Deej and i moved onto the slightly overhanging sport wall opposite, http://www.sportsclimbs.co.uk/mainpages/clwyd/Llanymynech%20Cul-de-Sac%20Quarry.htm

Duhh... what were we thinking of starting on an 8a!!!

2. Back-Bee-Tubin (8a)

3. Little Weed (7c) *

The first bolts are quite high up and without a clipstick the first few moves are a tad difficult, we rammed in few bit of protection prior to the first clip. God its hard work and the a fine layer of dust imbedded in the horizontal cracks means your hand just thrash out, the whole dam wall needs a jetwash. We don't even manage the 2nd clip on either before calling it a day. Totally sapped from trying just two routes we move onto easier ground.

With just enough light left Deej urges me onto lead DoWHnot 6a, It's a freaky 15m traverse over the old tunnel opening which looks and feels exposed, but the holds are all there. Dodging the odd bat the difficult bit is remembering leave yourself a fairly long tail after your tie in at the anchor, this allows someone to grab it and guide you down when your lowered, save ripping your balls off on the barbed wire fence. Now dark, Deej seconds then leads for Len to Second.



Rare glimpse of a Deejmonkey



http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_buttress.html?id=1260 





Just look at this mans knees





Though the evening has been balmy, Damian has insisted on wearing his new Rab Xenon jacket (available in 'Juicy Orange') throughout, this is because he won it in a competition and he has never won anything before, and it makes him feel happy. Back at the car he is now several pounds lighter.

Trevor Rocks Fudd Wall - Make Tea not war



Never a truer word said



Deej & Matt contemplating the 6C+



Thurs 14th July

Another glorious evening at Trevor this time just to the right of Fudd Wall. Gotta make the best of some half descent weather.

http://www.sportsclimbs.co.uk/mainpages/clwyd/Fudd%20Walls.htm

We have go at some of the best lines

Andy M, Sky & Daymo

Snakes in the Grass (6b) *

Super Furry Frogs (6a+) * Nice one Daymo & AndyM

Long Legged Lizard from Liverpool (6a) * yes ok, a lot of swearing from me but the beta does say 'tricky few at the top' so i recon it's justified.

Deej finishes off the night in fine moonlit style with Margin of Error (6c) * on Compact Wall, 'how does e do it' !!!!!



Eee's so fast ees  just a blurr i tell yah



We hear noises like a distressed animal, Matt is truly having a go at the 6c on top rope, fair play, he perseveres.

Anyone thinking of putting up a new route please call it "A Werther's Original, officer!" mail me and i'll explain.

Think I need to get a noddy dog and a hat for the back shelf of the Volvo diesel estate, mmmmmmmmmm

Trevor Rocks DM Wall - Thurs 7th July

A nearby suicide sheep tops out a 6b route next door pushing for that last clip of special grass.

"eee's goona deck i tell you, put yur elmet on" says Andy.

Another glorious evening on the Clwydian Limestone at Trevor, and as the evening sun bathes the wall in golden light, the voices of angels play in my ears. Have i slipped, and gone to heaven. Eeerrr probably not as i can still hear Andy's running comentary on the sheep epic.

"Eeees gonna go now, ave you got a knife cus we'll ve to finish i'm off, its the only kind thing to do" says Andy

"I saw Rob's Spatha on is bag" says Daymo

Yeah thanks Daymo, just concentrate on belaying rather than the freezer full of lamb.

 

Ruling out potential spiritual wakening and the imminent appearance of the angel Gabriel, we decide the ethereal tones of a choir are rising up from the valley floor. 'Wow this is awesome I recon it's coming from the Eisteddfod down in Llangollen'.http://www.international-eisteddfod.co.uk/

The setting sun cools the breeze, i slip on my trusty Arcteryx Atom jacket and empty the contents of the napoleon pocket, dried sheep poo, stuffed in their the week before. Ahhhhh i ask you........  

We finish off  few routes, one with nice little groove. Daymo decided wasn't not hard enough and humps the bulge to the left instead

http://www.sportsclimbs.co.uk/mainpages/clwyd/DM%20Walls%20topo.htm

Andy gets the penultimate climb, the nice little 4* Dim Parcio, in the dark Daymo misses a few clips out on the last route of the evening. Checking our rucsacs for additional limestone ballast we toddle off.

The sheep survived.

Constant non gardener

I have not worked tirelessly for years to achieve this dream garden. A clear case for nature not nurture:-)

We are in the sea.........