Thursday, 29 September 2011

Swanage Climbing, Sept 17 & 18th

Swanage Climbing or 'I know what you did last Sept 17 & 18th'
 
Friday Trying to find a decent weather window for climbing amongst the nastiness of the tail end of hurricane Katia. Down south looked like the best bet. So headed for Swanage.
We got down on Friday afternoon at Tom's to find the Matt, Daymo, Deej and Gaz had already got some climbs in at Dancing Ledge. Early feedback was suggesting that the backwall was dam hard for the grade. Andy M, yet to arrive in his Cmax, was battling against 'ferocious' 25mph headwinds, saying he'd not seen owt like it at we ought to prepare for the worst, how true...
Anyway that was for tomorrow, after a brew, Hel & I headed up to the Square & Compass, others to follow later. yes OK i know the way in the dark like the back of my hand, and I may have suggested it would only take 25mins. By about the 4th pint of Copper Ale they had still not arrived. 50/1 they don't make it and have either fallen off the cliff or been taken prisoner by the Purbeck Taliban. Eventually they arrived still minus Andy M & team BAMA. Yes we agree it's a bit like American Werewolf, blah, blah......Pints and Pasties appear, turns out they scared the sh**t out a some poor lad on a bike and tortured him for directions.
Kangaroo Moon were playing  http://www.kangaroomoon.com/ dam good stuff. Some pints and a complaint to the bar staff from Len on the meat/veg ratio of his pasty later, we headed back down the Priests Way......... 25mins bang on ish! 
 
Well, I thought it was all going quite well...enter team BAMA, stealth mode.
 

We're gonna play here today

Saturday After a few dodgy looks next morning from one of the neighbours, the chaps went to pay and received good humoured verbal warning. There were some minor confusions with the registration plates of the cars, and yes it was conceivable that there were more of us than had actually paid....that's multiple personality disorder for you.
After a cracking breakfast via the full facilities of Matt' (Skinners) van, we packed and headed for Dancing Ledge. The weather holds off for most of the day.

Daymo keen for some DWS

The 5+ routes 'The War of the Wardens'  and 'John Craven's Willy Warmer' are well polished and getting dam hard for the grade, so we move onto the 6b & c's hoping for some better rock. Good job we have a Deej with us 'The Honey Monster' and 'Rambling Moses Weetabix and the Secona Park Seven' and even Disco's Out, Murder's In 6c+ get an airing. The rocks a lot better but it's still dam hard work. Team BAMA get to grabs with some sea fishing and then onto the Mexican wave for some pumpy jugging, think they had a go at 'Circus Beach 7b+' http://27crags.com/crags/dancing-ledge/topos/mexican-wave-area before scaring the fish again with a dip in the swimming pool.
 
Back to Tom's and bring on the curry.....nice one Deej
 



Deej pulling a slow one


Matt, lookin casual















Yow cawt a wale mate
Saturday Night There was consideration given to taking the kit & curry down to the ledge, but a few beers later it sounded like hard work. Some many beers later there must have been something in the curry. Team BAMA end up going a bit native. I arrive back from the loo to a scene from the tail end of Apocalypse Now. Matt (Skinner) ends up doing what he does best. In the slightly amended words of Mr Winston Wolfe from Pulp Fiction.
The Wolf: That gives us exactly... till the morning to get the f**k out of Swanage. Which, if you do what I say when I say it, should be plenty. Now, you've got a corpse on the floor, minus a head, and it's going in the pot. Take me to it............. 10 minutes later the jobs done, the mans a legend. If this doesn't make sense, don't worry neither did Saturday night.
 
The rain falls steadily until morning, washing away the sins of the night before, the wind tentatively edges towards the critical speed of 25mph.
 
and Sunday morning Not so fresh as a daisy...and everything seems normal, breakfasts gets on the go, Daymo says lets ave scrambled, Len says yes but continues cooking fried. I like fried he says, for the 5th time???? What do we recon then, the weathers a bit on and off, need somewhere sheltered. Gotta be Portland then. East Side!
We loose Andy M & BAMA en route, they decide to head home. We end up at Godnor Far North,  we mange to get in a few routes, 'Jacob's Ladder' 5+, 'The Truth is Out There' 6b, 'Wedding Daze' 6b & 'Tombstone' 3+, this is lovely rock, a bit of everything. There are no words left but Len still has more to say, Daymo offers to pay one of us to belay Len next, but we're all very busy.
Ducking the worst of the odd showers we head back to the cars and go for munchies by the lighthouse, Helen gets a bit scared of the sheds. Time to go home..........





BAMA worrying the fishisis


Monday, 19 September 2011

Random vinyl from Robdogs cellar

Just about every track on the album jumps, but some nice person put the whole album on You Tube.
Nice to hear the odd sample cropping up now and again, for instance Gruff Rhys 'Candylion'

The band was formed by Ken Elliot (keyboards, vocals) and Kieran O'Connor (percussion), both of whom had been members of earlier progressive rock groups, Second Hand and Chillum. (Wiki)

Thursday, 15 September 2011

StoneBalancing - Adrian Gray

Caught a repeat of BBC Coast last week, and noticed this short piece on the artist Adrian Gray.

Stonebalancing near Chapmans pool Aug 2010 (no longer their)

Last time i saw somthing like this was at Chapmans Pool near Worth Matravers. We went down in August last year, and wondered who had done them, pretty impressive something of the 'Johnny Dawes' about it. Went down this August and they had gone, i hadn't realised that they had all been balanced by hand.


White  Chalk pile near Swanage

Near Swanage at the far end of the bay near the base of Ballard Down were a pile of pure White Chalk rocks I don't think this was by the same chap, but they looked pretty cool all the same.










Our attempt at rock sculpture is the 'Beast of Blochwyd' near Tryfan. Next time your passing if she needs a filling or a crown, have a go. 

The fearsome Best of Blochwyd ner Tryfan


Monday, 12 September 2011

Cleeve - Castle Rock - Thurs 8th September


<>
Funny enough the rock was that colour


Last rays




It's getting  bit late in the year now, but what the hell we can still squeeze out couple more evenings outside, just need  few more cycle lights or a generator.

HDR mode creates some weird
 We've been trying to work out a few routes only using specific holds.

Deej pic below was on the the slight bulge between E2 routes 9&10 in the Wye valley guide. You can only use holds above the bulge and to the left of 10 Eliminate 3.

Just realised whilst playing arround with the HDR app on the moby, it's actually quite good for pics of routes as it picks out loads of detail, mmm i forsee some experiments.
The light in the West

Deej cranking out on Fung Ku...so named due to the initial move.



Thursday, 8 September 2011

The Mountaineering Club - End of the Road Festival 2011

The Mountaineering Club End of the Road Festival 2011
First band we went to see in the big top, heard about them about 2 months ago, they've got that sonorous gravity laden glacier creaking sound (steady there now) that puts the hairs up on the back of your neck, with just the right amount of electro whump kicking in at the right palces. Took a few pics but i could have kicked myself as i had the last 2 tracks on video and then i went and flipin deleted them by accident agggghhhh! They had a few Mac gremlin's but courageously did a half acoustic then electro track that turned it around quite well. I'd keep it in the set chaps. Like all the tracks on EP esp 'Nansen' Anyway nuff of this stuff On belay, Climb when ready.
PS if you want an atmospheric pic for the next album cover, i got a few you can have FOC, see links below

Wednesday, 7 September 2011

Diagrams - Sam Genders - End of the Road festival 2011

Diagrams, Sam Genders - End of the Road festival 2011
 
Sam Genders with Diagrams at the recent End of the Road Festival 2011
 

A packed Tipi Tent for Diagrams, difficult to find a better description than 'wonderful'. Sorry, missed out that bit of Sam's banter about requesting some money for the special effects budget, he got £15 quid and spent it on some balloons and bubbles, money well spent. Apologies for the poor vid sound all a bit rushed, camera too close to the bins.
http://www.myspace.com/diagrams-47662023/music

Monday, 5 September 2011

White Denim - End of the Road

Back from another hot and sunny End of the Road Festival, while it's still fresh in my head just gotta mention some of the most memorable moments.....
We stumbled upon 'White Denim' wow what set, just when you think they have pulled out all the stops they find another 100 for the next number, I dunno where to start, a bit Battles, a bit Dirty Projectors, a bit Rush, Allman Brothers, Yes,.....i think they played every note on the planet in 30secs. Check out their myspace http://www.myspace.com/whitedenimmusic/music or You Tube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g3nmIxPkFJ4 sorry no pics i was too busy watching the band.

Ogwen - Y Garn, Elidir Fawr & Y Llymllwyd Ridge

Route -  Ogwen - Y Garn, Elidir Fawr & Y Llymllwyd Ridge Another classic mountain walk, taking in 2 of the Welsh 3,000 peaks, with...