Weekend of climbing at Ynys Lochtyn - Sept 20th – 23rd

Scene - A Thursday evenings indoor climbing
Deej explodes with some news...

“Lads lads, guess what says Deej, ”I’ve found this really great climbing venue that’s been re-discovered on the Welsh coast, and it’s near Daymo’s place in New Quay”

We exploded back “Err.. are you sure, we had a look a year ago and it was all chossy slate, that nearly killed us”

Deej now jumping about “Yes, yes its nowhere near that shitty place its further down the coast, place called Ynys-Lochtyn, we gotta go, we gotta go”

Over excited bouncing Tigerr Deej’s are a bleedin liability at an indoor wall, for his and our own personal safety we tie him on a rope.

“For fooks sake, ok, ok, somebody calm him down, and put him on the 7a.

....Later that evening in the pub checking the beta on our phones

By god, you know i think he’s right, this place looks amazing; bit of a walk in, but it’s bloody fantastic.

In June, a few of the chaps headed down to New Quay for a first recy.

I’m pottering round Ludlow on a lazy Saturday afternoon, and there’s a rumble in my pocket, as a series of pics and texts ping onto my phone. Opening the pics, I barely contain my excessive mouthful of Shropshire Blue cheese scone, bits of it fly across the cafe table.

Text < weather great, climbing awesome, were goin for a barby on the quay>

The delicious cheese scone only just about makes up for not being there...

The venue, Ynys Lochtyn has been re-discovered by Doug Kerr & Dave Williams. Presently there’s an excellent downloadable interim topo guide that i quote ‘is expected to be fully detailed in the forthcoming Climbers’ Club guide to Mid Wales (anticipated publication date of 2015)’

Download link

http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/downloads/ynys-lochtyn.pdf

From the interim guide ‘Ynys Lochtyn is the island situated just beyond the headland of Pen Trwyn Lochtyn. Ynys Lochtyn only becomes an island at high water. It is possible to cross to the island by means of a rocky beach, normally passable up to approximately 2.5 hours on either side of high water during neap tides but more time should be allowed during spring tides’

The feedback was.. its a brilliant venue, and the rock is good.

On the Saturday the lads had made the longish walk in round the headland of Pen Trwyn Lochtyn. The decent to Ynys Lochtyn was a bit messy but OK, access this way was fine but climbing time is dictated by the tide tables, so not overly convenient. What they needed was a boat, and we got a mate with a boat. So Sunday they took the boat.

The seaborne invasion is best tackled from the Eastern side of the island, slightly better protection from the wind and currents. On a low tide if you anchor the boat some 100m out, you can row an inflatable onto an obvious rocky ramp, but best pack everything in watertight bags.

Over the now long forgotten glorious summer of 2014, Daymo steals a couple more visits to the island, armed with some ‘previous’ of the venue were ready for a late summer adventure.

The boat trip - Saturday 20^th Sept

Daymo on Lochtyn Syndrome VS 5a

Its late September with spell of late sun, before the boat needs to come out of the water for the winter, we get a chance for a final visit of the year.

Damian, Len, Deej and Matt all manage to get down to New Quay on the Friday evening...

Very early Sat morning, I roll up at the wrong house and knock on the wrong door. Fortunately I realise the error and shuffle a couple of houses up, before the irritated owner answers. The correct front door is open but then this is a local community, the type of trusting community i remember form growing up in seaside Dorset. All’s quiet with faint hint of spilled spirits.

“Allo... Allo...wake up, anybody conscious? ”

They don’t look good...

Naturally, Matt has woken early with a purpose; he’s skipped down the village for some forgotten item for breakfast. Daymo surfaces and i remind him of the tide table, Yeah...we’ve got to get the boat out while the tides in the harbour. After an award winning fry up, we head off. Damian studies the sea with the keen eye of the ancient mariner. Yes, yes it’s a goodish day and the sea is sort of calmish. Already the harbour is busy; the locals are making the most of what may be the last good weekend of the year.

Gear stowed, we headed south from New Quay and picked up the knots.

“Daymo, how much fuel we got” say I.

“Loads Rob, were ok” says the captain "Take the wheel"

Undercover Wall area

…It’s been years since i steered, probably not since the incident on the Thames when my sleeve got caught on the throttle of my uncles boat. As the bow rose higher, his ever so reddening face hurtled towards me, mmm.. many a sunken punt, terrific fun. Served him right for the time he dropped anchor out of Poole Harbour, mid course of the Embassy International Offshore powerboat race, scared the shit out me, Coo.. great views of the crews faces, i could count their teeth. Many expletives later we were moved on by the coast guard helicopter.

The row in to the ramps on the east side

About an hour down the coast we get to Ynys Lochtyn, drop anchor and slide the inflatable into the water.

Tip, don’t let go of the bow rope. A couple of ferries and were all on the island, and mostly dry. This spot has traffic from local anglers so there are a few worn paths up from the rocky ramp. The weather is improving; no sun yet but its dry enough. We head off to the North tip of the island for Undercover & Stormborn Walls, a short scramble down an you’re on a good wide ledge.

Stormborn Wall (Right Hand) is getting some surf so we only have time for one route, it gets as regular tidal lash so there is also a bit of slippery seaweed.

Fewer routes due to encroaching tide. Damian leads on ‘Lochtyn Syndrome’ 15m VS 5a, the corner route is tricky at the top, we all second. Beware the finish, it may now be trickier, and you can blame Len for tearing off a useful chunk of rock.

Matt on Out of Time E2 5c

Ken soloing on Undercover wall

Undercover Wall slightly raked back about 5-10 degrees off vertical, and pockmarked with relief quartzite, nice, sharp clean holds. If it’s your first foray, Undercover has some good short easy-ish warm up routes, just right for getting a feel for the hard sandstone. The E2 in the far right corner has some challenges, useful protection is a little on the sparse side until you get around 3/4 height. We need to move onto Hidden Wall so we make a lame excuse for doing it on a toppy.

Undercover routes climbed (left to right)

· Full Time 15m S 4a (Solo)

· The Last Time 15m HS 4b (Solo)

· Come in, Your Time is Up 15m VD 4a (Solo)

· Time on My Hands 15m S 4a (Lead)

· Time of Your Life 15m HS 4b (The leftward trending flake) (Lead, Lovely little route to start on)

· Out of Time 15m E2 5c (Finish direct or more easily to the left at E2 5b) (Finish direct on top rope clean, protection sparse)

We shuffle back up from Undercover Wall and scramble down the cliff on the west side of the island leading to Hidden Wall’ area. Most of ‘Hidden wall’ is climbed from an elevated and wide ramp of rock that gently slopes into the sea. Its a superb spot to stretch out, catch a bit of sun and dry any wet ropes. Higher up the ramp, I don’t think it gets a tidal wash except probably spring tides and storms. As the afternoon warms up it starts to get a bit wiffy in places, Tip, if you caught sort and need a wee, ‘don’t pee on the ramp’ walk a bit further down nearer the water.

Totally recommend you try two lovely routes on Hidden Wall, ‘Crab’ S & ‘Seal’ VS, the guide advises these were originally climbed in 2005, there both well worth the one star and probably deserve two if you keep to the exposed flakes. A few extra small nuts will come in handy. I sew ‘Crab’ up big style, taking ages placing loads of pro, a few more routes and it’s time to leave.

 

Len on Menace from the deep HVS 5a

Concentration!!!

Hidden Wall - Lower ramp routes climbed

· Menace from the Deep 20m HVS 5a a difficult start then direct up the wall to finish up the quartz flake.

Hidden Wall – Upper Ramp routes climbed

· Crab 17m S The corner

· The Test 15m HVS 4c the right hand side of the golden/yellow wall with a runner in the groove of Saudade at 4m.

The row off from the gap at high tide

The row in to the gap between the island and mainland

Although most of our stuff is in dry bags we might have a bit of a problem pushing off from the ramp. The swell has picked up a bit. Daymo and Deej make the first reasonably dry run in the inflatable, leaving Len, Matt and myself waiting whilst Daymo brings the boat in a bit closer. To get off with a high tide Daymo rows the inflatable round to the gap between the Island and the mainland. Here even with a swell it’s reasonably clam. The inflatable can only ferry 2 at a time so that’s me and Len, any more and we won’t clear the small reef. Back on the boat Matt is the last sorry soul on the island. Daymo takes up the heroic task of the final journey, fair to say Matt’s pretty keen to get off buy now and so powers the oars back with exceptional gusto. Eventually were back into New Quay for Fish n Chips, a few beers in the pub, and finish off the honey bourbon.

Sunday 21^st Sept

Bring the inflatable up high enough to allow for high tide

Dawn rises with rosy fingers, another odyssey begins....

Sunday starts a bit bleary, i think I’ve fallen out of bed but as its only a tad off the floor it’s hard to tell.

“Brew Rob” says Matt, ....what a gentleman.

It’s looking a better day, the sun is out but Daymo has a feeling it might be a bit choppy past the harbour walls.

“Daymo, how much fuel we got” say I,

“Loads mate” says the captain.

“Right” says Daymo, “Common let’s get going, who’s got the pasties” The waves are a bit higher with a smatter of white ‘oses, so we need to keep the knots down”.

We let the locals know where we’re going just in case.

As we anchor round the East side again, the sea comes alive with jumpin sparkling sprats; the mackerel are feeding, quite spectacular.

Back on Ynys Lochtyn we head back to Hidden Wall for some unfinished business.

Me on Seal VS 4c, Daymo relaxing!!

I drop onto ‘Seal’ a cracking VS 4c, there are a couple of options higher up, the close to the edge direct 4c, or creeping round to the right for a what looks like harder b finish in the flatter flake. Looking down I’ve put in so much gear my belayer has either fallen asleep or slipped on a bit of kelp. I plumb for the direct 4c. A lovely big pull over a overhanging bulge of rock. One over its an easy finish. Note, there’s a bit of loose rock higher up so some extra long slings are v useful.

Safely tied off Deej wants to have a go at the E3 ‘Flight of the Concrete Puffins’ 19m E3 6a, to quote The left side of the arête is steep and hard.

Deej on i think Gorilla Warefare E3 5c

Jee’s it is exposed and hard. Various other routes go through the day. Matt pushes confidently up ‘The Test’ 15m HVS 4c, and Len and I do ‘Branded’ 15m E1 5a, wonderful climbing. Deej and Daymo are now on a roll, War Dance E2 5c and ‘Gorilla Warfare’ E3 5c, glorious grunts, the later over a bulge finish. The rest of us all pump trough the routes and are pleasantly knackered.

Time and tide as they say...with the sun still out we recon we can swim to the boat, striping off all the gear is dumped in the inflatable and Daymo rows it across. Ouch Ouch ouch.. them there barnacles are sharp. After a day’s hardish climbing the cold water is good on the muscles. A few minutes in the water and the boat doesn’t look any closer, in fact it looks further away, mild panic ensues, however Daymo’s only bringing her round to get in closer. I’m still in the waters when i hear a massive thump.

“What the ‘feck’ was that!” i burbble

Matt shouts, “Oh fook, he’s fallen over, quick Rob, get up here”

Daymo has slipped over on the bow trying to secure the anchor and smacked his head on the deck. We do the emergency ‘lie still and don’t move while we check you over’ routine. He wasn’t knocked out cold but there’s a spanked look on his face, it’s hard to tell what passes for normal, but we think he’s OK. Oh yes apart for the double vision....ANYWAY

Crisis averted we slam the throttle forward and bomb for port. It’s a late sunny evening, three or four (that’s 6 to 8 for Damian) local boats are out running the coast. Closing in on New Quay we can see the dolphin watch cruiser has found a pod. Len insists we have a look. It’s an impressive sight to witness so we idle a while.

The dolphins clock off for the afternoon and we take our leave, what a lucky day... we’re on a high, we’re so nearly home, we’re so low on fuel…

The engine cuts, the bow drops and we roll in silence with the swell.

“Ohh shh..”, said the captain…

On a positive note, what a cracking weekend good climbing, good company, good grub, mmm local pasties nom nom. With the boat eventually back on the trailer we head for middle England. Deej and I take the mountain road to Rhyader. As we climb out of the valley the sun sets with rosy fingers....run titles