Lofoten Islands - August 14th 2014

Lofoten Islands - August 14^th 2014

Last time we were in Norway was just over 30 years ago. We travelled almost the length of the country on a couple of Scan Rail Cards, Scandinavia equivalent of Inter Rail.

The track runs out at Bodo (lots of mountains and lakes through the carriage window), and you continue by bus to Narvik. We then took the iron ore railway http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iron_Ore_Line to Kiruna and travelled back through Sweden (lots of trees through the carriage window)

The Falklands conflict was that same year of ‘82, I shared a bunk bed with an Argentinean in Trondheim Youth Hostel, and all the trouble seemed such a very long way away, almost the polar opposite of where we were at the time, strange days.

The Fjords, the snow covered Hardangervidda plateau, the waterfalls and blossom on trees in Flam, we were so impressed with Norway we knew we wanted to go back, just didn’t think it would take 32 years!!

Narvik, or rather Harstad airport was our entry point this time. To travel to Bodo a few miles down the coast from Narvik, you fly South back to Oslo first then get a plane back up North. I’m sure you can get direct flights on smaller planes, a strange but probably not that unusual set up for long thin countries.

The E6 and E10 takes you north out of Narvik towards the islands, you dare not sleep for fear of missing the unfolding landscape. Billions of North Sea Krona revenue has been invested in connecting up the Lofoten archipelago to the mainland, radically improving access making it one of Europes best touring regions for bikers, cyclists, and campervan owner. Kilometre after Kilometre of fabulous bridges and tunnels, an engineers wet dream. The rock is so good, large sections of the tunnels are unlined. The Sløverfjord tunnel dips under the Atlantic near the town of Fiskeboll, and is truly impressive. You could argue the equivalent in the UK would be a bridge to the Hebrides. Just remember all the controversy over the Skye bridge, but then again there ain’t no vast reserves of Gas or Oil off the Western Isles….mmmm, well not yet, just a few Cod (Skrei)

We weren’t slumming it on this trip, staying at the Rica Hotel in Svolvaer. It’s just out of the town on its own island of Lamholmen. Can’t fault the place, the views are stunning even if you have a room facing the town. The Anker Brygge pub just across the car park serves a pricey pint of Mack Beer http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Macks_%C3%98lbryggeri of the 2 Mack Beers on tap we preferred the darker one. It’s a cosy place with bands most weekends.

Climbing

Check out the Rockfax guide to Lofoten http://www.rockfax.com/climbing-guides/all/lofoten-rock-2008/ although sold out their website they did have a few copies left in The Map Shop at Upton on Severn, there is also a PDF supplement to download. Aslo the http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_area.html?id=1007

The famous Svolvaergeita ‘Svolvaer Goat’ is just out of town. An amazing tower of rock perched on the hillside behind the areas main town, with the two giant blocks of 'the horns' balanced on its crest.

Hiking

Lofoten is a hikers wonderland, spires of rock screaming straight from sea, short treks that gain height quickly for fantastic views

First day out was a short walk through the town and up the brooding mass of Tjeldbergtinden 367m that over looks Svolvaer, with its twin summits the view from here provides you with an opportunity to orientate yourself in the Lofoten landscape, the mainland and the arm of the archipelago sweep across the horizon, (on a good day)

The second day took us out to Kleppstadheia 534m and its neighbouring peak Kvastinden 576m, more stunning views of Gimsoya

If you get a free day I can recommend the boat trip to the narrow Trollfjord, however, the real treat is fishing for Pollock and feeding them to the Sea Eagles.

Eggum to Unstad trail

A nine-kilometre trail, with mountains and lakes on one side and the ocean on the other. Look out for the unusual Head sculpture en-route. Unstad has by far the best surfing in Lofoten in an epic location http://www.unstadarcticsurf.com/

Samsund and the Apnesfjellet ridge

Another great excursion near the village of Stamsund

Skrova Island

Round off the trip to Lofoten with a boat trip to the island of Skrova and scramble to the summit. I noted that there is some potential for bouldering and single pitch routes on the north East side of the island, chalk marks evident.

If you want a few good ideas for the best hikes in Lofoten and your If your traveling independently then you can go far wrong with this website.

http://rando-lofoten.net/index.php/en/the-hikes

As I mentioned earlier we only had a short window to squeeze in this break so opted for a late booking with HF Holidays http://www.hfholidays.co.uk/ The HF guides have a really impressive grasp of the local history best hikes and a good knowledge of the indigenous Flora & Fauna.