Last time we were in Norway was just
over 30 years ago. We travelled almost the length of the country on a couple of
Scan Rail Cards, Scandinavia equivalent of
Inter Rail.
The track runs out at Bodo (lots
of mountains and lakes through the carriage window), and you continue by bus to
Narvik. We then took the iron ore
railway http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iron_Ore_Line
to Kiruna and travelled back through Sweden (lots of trees through the
carriage window)
The Falklands
conflict was that same year of ‘82, I shared a bunk bed with an Argentinean in
Trondheim Youth Hostel, and all the trouble seemed such a very long way away, almost
the polar opposite of where we were at the time, strange days.
The Fjords, the snow covered
Hardangervidda plateau, the waterfalls and blossom on trees in Flam, we were so
impressed with Norway we knew we wanted to go back, just didn’t think it would
take 32 years!!
Narvik, or rather Harstad
airport was our entry point this time. To travel to Bodo a few miles down the
coast from Narvik, you fly South back to Oslo first then get a
plane back up North. I’m sure you can get direct flights on smaller planes, a
strange but probably not that unusual set up for long thin countries.
The E6 and E10 takes you north
out of Narvik towards the islands, you dare not sleep for fear of missing the
unfolding landscape. Billions of North Sea Krona revenue has been invested in
connecting up the Lofoten archipelago to the mainland, radically improving access
making it one of Europes best touring regions
for bikers, cyclists, and campervan owner. Kilometre after Kilometre of
fabulous bridges and tunnels, an engineers wet dream. The rock is so good, large
sections of the tunnels are unlined. The Sløverfjord tunnel
dips under the Atlantic near the town of Fiskeboll ,
and is truly impressive. You could argue the equivalent in the UK would be a bridge to the Hebrides .
Just remember all the controversy over the Skye bridge, but then again there ain’t
no vast reserves of Gas or Oil off the Western Isles….mmmm, well not yet, just
a few Cod (Skrei)
We weren’t slumming it on this
trip, staying at the Rica Hotel in Svolvaer. It’s just out of the town on its
own island of Lamholmen . Can’t fault the place, the
views are stunning even if you have a room facing the town. The Anker Brygge
pub just across the car park serves a pricey pint of Mack Beer http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Macks_%C3%98lbryggeri
of the 2 Mack Beers on tap we preferred the darker one. It’s a cosy place with
bands most weekends.
Climbing
Check out the Rockfax guide to
Lofoten http://www.rockfax.com/climbing-guides/all/lofoten-rock-2008/
although sold out their website they did have a few copies left in The Map Shop
at Upton on Severn ,
there is also a PDF supplement to download. Aslo the http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_area.html?id=1007
The famous Svolvaergeita
‘Svolvaer Goat’ is just out of town. An amazing tower of rock perched on the
hillside behind the areas main town, with the two giant blocks of 'the horns'
balanced on its crest.
Hiking
Lofoten is a hikers wonderland,
spires of rock screaming straight from sea, short treks that gain height
quickly for fantastic views
First day out was a short walk
through the town and up the brooding mass of Tjeldbergtinden 367m that over
looks Svolvaer, with its twin summits the view from here provides you with an
opportunity to orientate yourself in the Lofoten landscape, the mainland and the
arm of the archipelago sweep across the horizon, (on a good day)
The second day took us out to
Kleppstadheia 534m and its neighbouring peak Kvastinden 576m, more stunning
views of Gimsoya
If you get a free day I can recommend
the boat trip to the narrow Trollfjord, however, the real treat is fishing for Pollock
and feeding them to the Sea Eagles.
Eggum to Unstad trail
A nine-kilometre trail, with mountains and lakes on one side
and the ocean on the other. Look out for the unusual Head sculpture en-route.
Unstad has by far the best surfing
in Lofoten in an epic location http://www.unstadarcticsurf.com/
Another
great excursion near the village
of Stamsund
Round
off the trip to Lofoten with a boat trip to the island of Skrova
and scramble to the summit. I noted that there is some potential for bouldering
and single pitch routes on the north East side of the island, chalk marks
evident.
As
I mentioned earlier we only had a short window to squeeze in this break so
opted for a late booking with HF Holidays http://www.hfholidays.co.uk/
The HF guides have a really impressive grasp of the local history best hikes
and a good knowledge of the indigenous Flora & Fauna.