North Wales, on a mountain, whiteout conditions, no compass...

                 About 15 years ago i had a ‘Winter Whiteout’ mini epic ‘somewhere’ near the top of Y Gribin.

It was a Mid Winter ‘solo’ day out over the Glyders just before Xmas. Weather conditions were generally good with clear visibility and plenty of well establish snow on the ground, though the forecast did suggested some likely snow showers later in the day.

                Equipped with Ice Axe/Crampons, a short length of rope and full winter kit, quite late in the day about 11am I set off. I reckoned i had about 5hrs of daylight, so had decided just to ascend via Yr Gribin ridge, and depending on how things went, descend via Seniors, the Kitchen or Y Garn.. having a torch & bivy Bag I was well prepared to descend in the dark if required. I was even aware that it was not far off a full moon.

                With a good covering of compact snow and ice I made speedy progress. Nearing the top of Y Gribin ridge I noticed a colossal bank of dark cloud rapidly coming in from the South west, i reckoned that i would top out before it hit and i could start making my way down if it turned bad. I’d taken about 20 paces from the top and was resting for a drink and a quick bite to eat when the storm caught up with me, I was in a full blown Whiteout with driving snow and zero visibility.  

OK think, get a grip, i needed to formulate a retreat, one problem, i couldn't find my compass. A search of the immediate ground to see if it had fallen out of my bag revealed nothing, the ferocity of the storm instantly obliterated my tracks, any hope of finding it were out.

On a better day

                I’d by now already turned around several times and so lost my original orientation from the ridge. 15 mins had passed, I needed a brief clear spell to re-orientate myself.... Another 10 mins no change, so re-evaluate. Descending Y Gribin in these conditions, err no thanks! but i couldn't be far off the edge of Nameless Cwm, so maybe pick up the edge and follow it along? Carefully pacing out and back along what I thought were the cardinal points, I still couldn't establish the edge of the Cwm. On the way up I’d noticed the large cornices so was cautious of exploring too close to the edge.  Dam.... time was getting on and my situation wasn't getting any better.

                I did have a mobile phone, but it was just a phone no GPS, so what next, mountain rescue, stay put, hunker down and find some shelter from the wind? Great, i couldn't even supply a grid reference. It was getting late, dark in another hour. Ok if i got really stuck at least I could let them know I was up here and what I was intending to do.

                Conditions weren't going to improve in the next few hours, I didn't relish an uncomfortable night out in the bivy bag. 10 minutes of buffeting later...hang on, I do have one other constant, the bleedin wind, its been blowing from the same direction since i left the ridge. if I walk into the wind it will at least take me off the summit plateau to the easier southern flank of Glyder Fawr. After about ½ hr slow progress against the storm, prodding the ground in front. I’d lost enough height to afford a fleeting glimpse of a way down to Pen Y Pass.

               I’m on the wrong side of the mountain for my car but at least i'm safe. A bearing based on the wind direction had been a tad speculative but with no visibility and no compass, it had worked and i was off the hill. In the dark I hit the iced up tarmac of the Llanberis road, thumb out, the first car struggling up the pass stopped and offered a lift. Not the first bit of good luck that day.

I guess i looked a bit iced up “You had a good day” said the driver.

After a delay of a few seconds “Err yeah...on reflection, pretty good” i replied.

Back at my semi buried car i eventually wrenched open the frozen driver door, and started the engine. Dumping the gear in the boot i took a step backwards, ‘Crack’ Lucky me, I’d struck Silva.

Weekend of climbing at Ynys Lochtyn - Sept 20th – 23rd

Scene - A Thursday evenings indoor climbing
Deej explodes with some news...

“Lads lads, guess what says Deej, ”I’ve found this really great climbing venue that’s been re-discovered on the Welsh coast, and it’s near Daymo’s place in New Quay”

We exploded back “Err.. are you sure, we had a look a year ago and it was all chossy slate, that nearly killed us”

Deej now jumping about “Yes, yes its nowhere near that shitty place its further down the coast, place called Ynys-Lochtyn, we gotta go, we gotta go”

Over excited bouncing Tigerr Deej’s are a bleedin liability at an indoor wall, for his and our own personal safety we tie him on a rope.

“For fooks sake, ok, ok, somebody calm him down, and put him on the 7a.

....Later that evening in the pub checking the beta on our phones

By god, you know i think he’s right, this place looks amazing; bit of a walk in, but it’s bloody fantastic.

In June, a few of the chaps headed down to New Quay for a first recy.

I’m pottering round Ludlow on a lazy Saturday afternoon, and there’s a rumble in my pocket, as a series of pics and texts ping onto my phone. Opening the pics, I barely contain my excessive mouthful of Shropshire Blue cheese scone, bits of it fly across the cafe table.

Text < weather great, climbing awesome, were goin for a barby on the quay>

The delicious cheese scone only just about makes up for not being there...

The venue, Ynys Lochtyn has been re-discovered by Doug Kerr & Dave Williams. Presently there’s an excellent downloadable interim topo guide that i quote ‘is expected to be fully detailed in the forthcoming Climbers’ Club guide to Mid Wales (anticipated publication date of 2015)’

Download link

http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/downloads/ynys-lochtyn.pdf

From the interim guide ‘Ynys Lochtyn is the island situated just beyond the headland of Pen Trwyn Lochtyn. Ynys Lochtyn only becomes an island at high water. It is possible to cross to the island by means of a rocky beach, normally passable up to approximately 2.5 hours on either side of high water during neap tides but more time should be allowed during spring tides’

The feedback was.. its a brilliant venue, and the rock is good.

On the Saturday the lads had made the longish walk in round the headland of Pen Trwyn Lochtyn. The decent to Ynys Lochtyn was a bit messy but OK, access this way was fine but climbing time is dictated by the tide tables, so not overly convenient. What they needed was a boat, and we got a mate with a boat. So Sunday they took the boat.

The seaborne invasion is best tackled from the Eastern side of the island, slightly better protection from the wind and currents. On a low tide if you anchor the boat some 100m out, you can row an inflatable onto an obvious rocky ramp, but best pack everything in watertight bags.

Over the now long forgotten glorious summer of 2014, Daymo steals a couple more visits to the island, armed with some ‘previous’ of the venue were ready for a late summer adventure.

The boat trip - Saturday 20^th Sept

Daymo on Lochtyn Syndrome VS 5a

Its late September with spell of late sun, before the boat needs to come out of the water for the winter, we get a chance for a final visit of the year.

Damian, Len, Deej and Matt all manage to get down to New Quay on the Friday evening...

Very early Sat morning, I roll up at the wrong house and knock on the wrong door. Fortunately I realise the error and shuffle a couple of houses up, before the irritated owner answers. The correct front door is open but then this is a local community, the type of trusting community i remember form growing up in seaside Dorset. All’s quiet with faint hint of spilled spirits.

“Allo... Allo...wake up, anybody conscious? ”

They don’t look good...

Naturally, Matt has woken early with a purpose; he’s skipped down the village for some forgotten item for breakfast. Daymo surfaces and i remind him of the tide table, Yeah...we’ve got to get the boat out while the tides in the harbour. After an award winning fry up, we head off. Damian studies the sea with the keen eye of the ancient mariner. Yes, yes it’s a goodish day and the sea is sort of calmish. Already the harbour is busy; the locals are making the most of what may be the last good weekend of the year.

Gear stowed, we headed south from New Quay and picked up the knots.

“Daymo, how much fuel we got” say I.

“Loads Rob, were ok” says the captain "Take the wheel"

Undercover Wall area

…It’s been years since i steered, probably not since the incident on the Thames when my sleeve got caught on the throttle of my uncles boat. As the bow rose higher, his ever so reddening face hurtled towards me, mmm.. many a sunken punt, terrific fun. Served him right for the time he dropped anchor out of Poole Harbour, mid course of the Embassy International Offshore powerboat race, scared the shit out me, Coo.. great views of the crews faces, i could count their teeth. Many expletives later we were moved on by the coast guard helicopter.

The row in to the ramps on the east side

About an hour down the coast we get to Ynys Lochtyn, drop anchor and slide the inflatable into the water.

Tip, don’t let go of the bow rope. A couple of ferries and were all on the island, and mostly dry. This spot has traffic from local anglers so there are a few worn paths up from the rocky ramp. The weather is improving; no sun yet but its dry enough. We head off to the North tip of the island for Undercover & Stormborn Walls, a short scramble down an you’re on a good wide ledge.

Stormborn Wall (Right Hand) is getting some surf so we only have time for one route, it gets as regular tidal lash so there is also a bit of slippery seaweed.

Fewer routes due to encroaching tide. Damian leads on ‘Lochtyn Syndrome’ 15m VS 5a, the corner route is tricky at the top, we all second. Beware the finish, it may now be trickier, and you can blame Len for tearing off a useful chunk of rock.

Matt on Out of Time E2 5c

Ken soloing on Undercover wall

Undercover Wall slightly raked back about 5-10 degrees off vertical, and pockmarked with relief quartzite, nice, sharp clean holds. If it’s your first foray, Undercover has some good short easy-ish warm up routes, just right for getting a feel for the hard sandstone. The E2 in the far right corner has some challenges, useful protection is a little on the sparse side until you get around 3/4 height. We need to move onto Hidden Wall so we make a lame excuse for doing it on a toppy.

Undercover routes climbed (left to right)

· Full Time 15m S 4a (Solo)

· The Last Time 15m HS 4b (Solo)

· Come in, Your Time is Up 15m VD 4a (Solo)

· Time on My Hands 15m S 4a (Lead)

· Time of Your Life 15m HS 4b (The leftward trending flake) (Lead, Lovely little route to start on)

· Out of Time 15m E2 5c (Finish direct or more easily to the left at E2 5b) (Finish direct on top rope clean, protection sparse)

We shuffle back up from Undercover Wall and scramble down the cliff on the west side of the island leading to Hidden Wall’ area. Most of ‘Hidden wall’ is climbed from an elevated and wide ramp of rock that gently slopes into the sea. Its a superb spot to stretch out, catch a bit of sun and dry any wet ropes. Higher up the ramp, I don’t think it gets a tidal wash except probably spring tides and storms. As the afternoon warms up it starts to get a bit wiffy in places, Tip, if you caught sort and need a wee, ‘don’t pee on the ramp’ walk a bit further down nearer the water.

Totally recommend you try two lovely routes on Hidden Wall, ‘Crab’ S & ‘Seal’ VS, the guide advises these were originally climbed in 2005, there both well worth the one star and probably deserve two if you keep to the exposed flakes. A few extra small nuts will come in handy. I sew ‘Crab’ up big style, taking ages placing loads of pro, a few more routes and it’s time to leave.

 

Len on Menace from the deep HVS 5a

Concentration!!!

Hidden Wall - Lower ramp routes climbed

· Menace from the Deep 20m HVS 5a a difficult start then direct up the wall to finish up the quartz flake.

Hidden Wall – Upper Ramp routes climbed

· Crab 17m S The corner

· The Test 15m HVS 4c the right hand side of the golden/yellow wall with a runner in the groove of Saudade at 4m.

The row off from the gap at high tide

The row in to the gap between the island and mainland

Although most of our stuff is in dry bags we might have a bit of a problem pushing off from the ramp. The swell has picked up a bit. Daymo and Deej make the first reasonably dry run in the inflatable, leaving Len, Matt and myself waiting whilst Daymo brings the boat in a bit closer. To get off with a high tide Daymo rows the inflatable round to the gap between the Island and the mainland. Here even with a swell it’s reasonably clam. The inflatable can only ferry 2 at a time so that’s me and Len, any more and we won’t clear the small reef. Back on the boat Matt is the last sorry soul on the island. Daymo takes up the heroic task of the final journey, fair to say Matt’s pretty keen to get off buy now and so powers the oars back with exceptional gusto. Eventually were back into New Quay for Fish n Chips, a few beers in the pub, and finish off the honey bourbon.

Sunday 21^st Sept

Bring the inflatable up high enough to allow for high tide

Dawn rises with rosy fingers, another odyssey begins....

Sunday starts a bit bleary, i think I’ve fallen out of bed but as its only a tad off the floor it’s hard to tell.

“Brew Rob” says Matt, ....what a gentleman.

It’s looking a better day, the sun is out but Daymo has a feeling it might be a bit choppy past the harbour walls.

“Daymo, how much fuel we got” say I,

“Loads mate” says the captain.

“Right” says Daymo, “Common let’s get going, who’s got the pasties” The waves are a bit higher with a smatter of white ‘oses, so we need to keep the knots down”.

We let the locals know where we’re going just in case.

As we anchor round the East side again, the sea comes alive with jumpin sparkling sprats; the mackerel are feeding, quite spectacular.

Back on Ynys Lochtyn we head back to Hidden Wall for some unfinished business.

Me on Seal VS 4c, Daymo relaxing!!

I drop onto ‘Seal’ a cracking VS 4c, there are a couple of options higher up, the close to the edge direct 4c, or creeping round to the right for a what looks like harder b finish in the flatter flake. Looking down I’ve put in so much gear my belayer has either fallen asleep or slipped on a bit of kelp. I plumb for the direct 4c. A lovely big pull over a overhanging bulge of rock. One over its an easy finish. Note, there’s a bit of loose rock higher up so some extra long slings are v useful.

Safely tied off Deej wants to have a go at the E3 ‘Flight of the Concrete Puffins’ 19m E3 6a, to quote The left side of the arête is steep and hard.

Deej on i think Gorilla Warefare E3 5c

Jee’s it is exposed and hard. Various other routes go through the day. Matt pushes confidently up ‘The Test’ 15m HVS 4c, and Len and I do ‘Branded’ 15m E1 5a, wonderful climbing. Deej and Daymo are now on a roll, War Dance E2 5c and ‘Gorilla Warfare’ E3 5c, glorious grunts, the later over a bulge finish. The rest of us all pump trough the routes and are pleasantly knackered.

Time and tide as they say...with the sun still out we recon we can swim to the boat, striping off all the gear is dumped in the inflatable and Daymo rows it across. Ouch Ouch ouch.. them there barnacles are sharp. After a day’s hardish climbing the cold water is good on the muscles. A few minutes in the water and the boat doesn’t look any closer, in fact it looks further away, mild panic ensues, however Daymo’s only bringing her round to get in closer. I’m still in the waters when i hear a massive thump.

“What the ‘feck’ was that!” i burbble

Matt shouts, “Oh fook, he’s fallen over, quick Rob, get up here”

Daymo has slipped over on the bow trying to secure the anchor and smacked his head on the deck. We do the emergency ‘lie still and don’t move while we check you over’ routine. He wasn’t knocked out cold but there’s a spanked look on his face, it’s hard to tell what passes for normal, but we think he’s OK. Oh yes apart for the double vision....ANYWAY

Crisis averted we slam the throttle forward and bomb for port. It’s a late sunny evening, three or four (that’s 6 to 8 for Damian) local boats are out running the coast. Closing in on New Quay we can see the dolphin watch cruiser has found a pod. Len insists we have a look. It’s an impressive sight to witness so we idle a while.

The dolphins clock off for the afternoon and we take our leave, what a lucky day... we’re on a high, we’re so nearly home, we’re so low on fuel…

The engine cuts, the bow drops and we roll in silence with the swell.

“Ohh shh..”, said the captain…

On a positive note, what a cracking weekend good climbing, good company, good grub, mmm local pasties nom nom. With the boat eventually back on the trailer we head for middle England. Deej and I take the mountain road to Rhyader. As we climb out of the valley the sun sets with rosy fingers....run titles

Lofoten Islands - August 14th 2014

Lofoten Islands - August 14^th 2014

Last time we were in Norway was just over 30 years ago. We travelled almost the length of the country on a couple of Scan Rail Cards, Scandinavia equivalent of Inter Rail.

The track runs out at Bodo (lots of mountains and lakes through the carriage window), and you continue by bus to Narvik. We then took the iron ore railway http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iron_Ore_Line to Kiruna and travelled back through Sweden (lots of trees through the carriage window)

The Falklands conflict was that same year of ‘82, I shared a bunk bed with an Argentinean in Trondheim Youth Hostel, and all the trouble seemed such a very long way away, almost the polar opposite of where we were at the time, strange days.

The Fjords, the snow covered Hardangervidda plateau, the waterfalls and blossom on trees in Flam, we were so impressed with Norway we knew we wanted to go back, just didn’t think it would take 32 years!!

Narvik, or rather Harstad airport was our entry point this time. To travel to Bodo a few miles down the coast from Narvik, you fly South back to Oslo first then get a plane back up North. I’m sure you can get direct flights on smaller planes, a strange but probably not that unusual set up for long thin countries.

The E6 and E10 takes you north out of Narvik towards the islands, you dare not sleep for fear of missing the unfolding landscape. Billions of North Sea Krona revenue has been invested in connecting up the Lofoten archipelago to the mainland, radically improving access making it one of Europes best touring regions for bikers, cyclists, and campervan owner. Kilometre after Kilometre of fabulous bridges and tunnels, an engineers wet dream. The rock is so good, large sections of the tunnels are unlined. The Sløverfjord tunnel dips under the Atlantic near the town of Fiskeboll, and is truly impressive. You could argue the equivalent in the UK would be a bridge to the Hebrides. Just remember all the controversy over the Skye bridge, but then again there ain’t no vast reserves of Gas or Oil off the Western Isles….mmmm, well not yet, just a few Cod (Skrei)

We weren’t slumming it on this trip, staying at the Rica Hotel in Svolvaer. It’s just out of the town on its own island of Lamholmen. Can’t fault the place, the views are stunning even if you have a room facing the town. The Anker Brygge pub just across the car park serves a pricey pint of Mack Beer http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Macks_%C3%98lbryggeri of the 2 Mack Beers on tap we preferred the darker one. It’s a cosy place with bands most weekends.

Climbing

Check out the Rockfax guide to Lofoten http://www.rockfax.com/climbing-guides/all/lofoten-rock-2008/ although sold out their website they did have a few copies left in The Map Shop at Upton on Severn, there is also a PDF supplement to download. Aslo the http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_area.html?id=1007

The famous Svolvaergeita ‘Svolvaer Goat’ is just out of town. An amazing tower of rock perched on the hillside behind the areas main town, with the two giant blocks of 'the horns' balanced on its crest.

Hiking

Lofoten is a hikers wonderland, spires of rock screaming straight from sea, short treks that gain height quickly for fantastic views

First day out was a short walk through the town and up the brooding mass of Tjeldbergtinden 367m that over looks Svolvaer, with its twin summits the view from here provides you with an opportunity to orientate yourself in the Lofoten landscape, the mainland and the arm of the archipelago sweep across the horizon, (on a good day)

The second day took us out to Kleppstadheia 534m and its neighbouring peak Kvastinden 576m, more stunning views of Gimsoya

If you get a free day I can recommend the boat trip to the narrow Trollfjord, however, the real treat is fishing for Pollock and feeding them to the Sea Eagles.

Eggum to Unstad trail

A nine-kilometre trail, with mountains and lakes on one side and the ocean on the other. Look out for the unusual Head sculpture en-route. Unstad has by far the best surfing in Lofoten in an epic location http://www.unstadarcticsurf.com/

Samsund and the Apnesfjellet ridge

Another great excursion near the village of Stamsund

Skrova Island

Round off the trip to Lofoten with a boat trip to the island of Skrova and scramble to the summit. I noted that there is some potential for bouldering and single pitch routes on the north East side of the island, chalk marks evident.

If you want a few good ideas for the best hikes in Lofoten and your If your traveling independently then you can go far wrong with this website.

http://rando-lofoten.net/index.php/en/the-hikes

As I mentioned earlier we only had a short window to squeeze in this break so opted for a late booking with HF Holidays http://www.hfholidays.co.uk/ The HF guides have a really impressive grasp of the local history best hikes and a good knowledge of the indigenous Flora & Fauna. 

Lofoten Islands - Svolvaer

Great first day hike. Svolvaer up Tjeldbergtinden 367m then down to Kabelvag for an audience with the king of Lofoten. 11k

Threading thru the Castell y Gwynt

Brrr.. might need the factor 50 on but its still a cold wind on the hill. Stunning Easter sunshine so far, just pack your down jackets for the tops.

Threading thru the Castell y Gwynt

Rivelin Nutters - Saturday 15th March

Last Saturday started quite windy with breakfast at the Outside Cafe in Hathersage. The breezy theme continued up at Stanage Popular. It was a bit quiet, too quiet, we should have known better.

...After not warming up on a couple of VDiffs ‘Boot Crack’ & ‘Shuffle’ we throw in the towel. We’ll... we try to throw it in but it keeps coming back in our faces, as does 60m of Mammut Galaxy. Borne by a howlin gale, a tirade of expletives buffet their way down the Ringinglow Road.  Whilst opening a window to hark an early spring raptor, the ears of a polite pensioner in Sheffield, are audibly assaulted in broad Black Country “Bastard windy aye it, blownin me nuts in me face’”. Assuming ravaging Mercian’s are at the door the victim slams the window to check that Radio 4 is still on air.

Attributing this outburst to severe wind lassitude, we peruse Eastern Grit for the ‘not so fekkin windy’ icon, the only option looks live Rivelin Edge.

In hurry to dump the gear in the back of Damo’s motor. We inadvertently realise all our mobiles are in the boot, sans easy access to Google maps. “OK so where’s Rivelin” says Daymo, Dunno but it’s not far from Sheffield. Too lazy t get the moby’s out of the boot we use The Eastern Grit guide as a road map. Gotta be down the Ringinglow somewhere then turn off left. Turning left we ask a chap on a bike who says he has lived here all his life and just come up from Rivelin but can’t remember how he got here, he thinks its the right way but no he thinks its a dead end, but yes its the right way. We should have asked the bloke in the tractor.

The wind still sucking up the waves on Rivelin reservoir, Len recons he can canoe the sluice and gives it a grade 5. Rivelin is new to us, never been before but it looks a top venue, the wind has eased both externally and internally. First up comes Deej on Left Edge VS 4c seconded by Daymo & Len. Tom lead Temple Crack VDiff then Pious Flake Severe, nice little routes not to worn. Daymo then went onto Jonad Rib HVS 4c a bold exposed route with little protection. We all seconded.

Deej by now was getting the grit itch for a major route, Croton Oil HVS 5a a grit classic. Peed off cause my back was given me gyp, at least it gave me the chance to take a few pics. After a few slow moves around half way and some major protection works, Deej trundled off to the top. Len, Daymo and Tom seconded which made for a bit of a crowd at the top. After a bit of a juggle they all abbed down safely. After a rusty winter it was good to get out, thanks Rivelin.