http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9e3sqtoRG-Y
Freelance Mountain Guide & Climbing Instructor, IML Aspirant, DofE Assessor, wistfully stumbling around in the elements
Monday, 28 November 2011
Waiting for Winter
The clouds this Sunday started to show the colour for snow.
Bout this time last year the snow had arrived causing chaos and mayhem, my concern was not being able to get to North Wales before it disappeared. A day off work needs some minimal planning at least, go to early and you might miss an awesome dump the following day, go to late and all you get is mush, aaagghhh. Anyway nothing yet except a couple of slightly frozen puddles on the odd summit.
Wednesday, 16 November 2011
Ellen & the Escapdes at Kitchen Garden Cafe, Kings Heath
Monday 14th November
Another lovely gig, at a great little venue, only wish i could have had one of their bottled beers, unfortunately driving so had to settle for elderflower cordial. 2 part set, loved tracks 'Coming back home' and 'Praying on your Mind'. Shades of Midlake and the like, the twist is in her voice.
New EP 'Of All The Times' available and on tour at the moment, see http://www.myspace.com/ellenandtheescapades or http://www.ellenandtheescapades.com/
New EP 'Of All The Times' available and on tour at the moment, see http://www.myspace.com/ellenandtheescapades or http://www.ellenandtheescapades.com/
Rainbow Warrior III
Saturday 12th November
Bit of busy last weekend, down smoke on the Saturday to see the wonderful new Rainbow Warrior III, didn't much care for driving towards the Isle of dogs, can't remember the last time i didn't or more like couldn't pull over anywhere to check the map, surveillance cameras everywhere, traffic up your arse all the time, and this was on a quiet day. Flick the dead locks on we head towards Canary Wharf, dam bankers types will nick anything, pass the private roads and gated streets, i'm in a Volvo you can trust me. Find a car park, we head towards the South Quay, and there she is all Green and Rainbowy, masts spiraling in contempt of its glass and steel neighbours. When you see her there's just somthing about RW that makes you smile with a big cheesy grin, i know, its the return of hope. Good luck to all who sail in her.
Sunday 13th
The chaps were off climbing at Tremdoc, believer 'Christmas Curry' and 'Striptease' were done in fine style, Bit knackered after the drive back from London and few pints on the evening, we didn't get to Wales until arround 11am, a quick coffee then after we watched the cadets place the wreath in Capel Curig, 1st time i believe. That little bit of the A5 stood silent for moment. We headed up to Y Garn again, i know but i never get tired of it. Met Mal Creasey on the summit and had a bit of catch up. If you meet Mal don't mention Langmuir....i did but i think i got away with it.
Sunday, 6 November 2011
North Wales again..
The sea looked still and frozen today |
Very dark leaves on the holly trees |
Clear Blue skies over North Wales today, only passed one other person on Hebog, nice and quiet with the smoke rising verticaly from the chimneys down in Bedgelert.
Shadow cast from Hebog |
Noticed again how the noon shadow cast by Hebog as it sweeps across the valley below, is quite definate & pointed, the arc from Tryfan is also similarly distinctive. Would either of them make a suitable natural sundial or solar observatory? Like to return on the equinoxes and get a precise grid reference and place a rock on the exact place to stand when the sun hits its optimun highest and lowest point in the sky at noon. Might be a nice idea for a natural sculpture.
Saturday, 5 November 2011
Thursday, 3 November 2011
Troll Wall...a very indirectly related event
Been following Andy Kirkpatrick’s recent epic Tweets from the Troll and it reminded me of and indirectly related event back in 2006.
I was booked to marshal a 3 Peak Event on Snowdon, all was looking good to go until the weather started turning nasty on the Friday. A massive front began moving in from the Atlantic, not boding well for the weekend. The event teams for the Snowdon leg usually start arriving around late afternoon, and attempt Snowdon during the night.
This year the charity had switched the route from the PYG to the Llanberis path, as the cafe at Pen Y Pass was getting a tight for space. The PYG in some ways is an easier route to ‘marshal’ during bad weather as the cwm provides some natural protection from the prevailing winds, at least until you hit the top of the zig zags. The Llanberis path is a motorway but far more open to the elements.
The wind picked up and it started raining in Llanberis but not so bad to cancel the event, the marshals started moving into position an hour before the first teams were due to arrive. There are usually 6 marshals for Snowdon, a head marshal based down in Llanberis, one at the start of the walk just as you come off the track, one at Halfway house, one at Clogwyn Station, one between Coglwyn and the summit to protect the accidental troll over Crib y Ddysgl, finally one at the top. I usually take the top slot. It has it’s +/-, on a good day it’s worth it for the view. If it’s bad weather it can be really bad. We all have radio’s but quite often it’s only the summit marshal who can get decent comm’s with everyone else on the mountain and base. Each team also has a radio for emergency use.
Heading up the track from Halfway to Clogwyn station the full force of the gathering storm started to hit. The wind speed was buffeting between 40 to 50mph and getting stronger as we gained height. Regularly feeding back the developing conditions to base, by the time we got to Clogwyn it had increased to 60-70mph and gusting well above, with driving rain. I headed up further towards the summit with one of the other marshals. The conditions on the mountain were now dangerous, not just for the competitors but also for the marshals, most of who were members of the Llanberis MR team. If you can get a tent up or bury yourself in a KISU then you can ride a storm OK, but to continually be on the lookout for around 40 teams of 5 or 6 people is impossible. Retreating from further up the path, but with some protection from the railway embankment this left 3 of us a Clogwyn with a wait to see if conditions improved, and assist with getting the teams back down safely.
It is usual practice to ‘lower the summit’ or close the event if conditions are this serious. Unable to set up and protect the route passed Clogwyn station we began to turnback teams from there. Most competitors were extremely glad of the decision.
It was at this point, that a call came over the radio from the other marshals lower down the mountain to look out for a lone walker/climber described reported as struggling or looking exhausted somewhere around the Clogwyn station area. After a shouty and windtorn conference between myself and the others, we concluded that we had seen someone earlier who seemed to fit the bill, but with only about 10m of visibility it was difficult to trace which way he was heading or guess where he might by now. A couple of us headed back down towards Halfway and met up with a figure struggling down the path. He was clearly exhausted, after a hot drink and some chocolate we helped him back down towards Llanberis. Offering to pick up his gear we couldn’t believe how much stuff this chap had been hawking around in the storm, heavily sodden ropes, a portaledge, gear and a rucsac plus other packs etc. I could hardly lift the rope bag on its own! It had been his plan that day to solo in practice for an attempt at the Troll Wall, fair play he’d done a good job climbing cloggy but had been eventually taken to task by the atrocious weather conditions. Once down he was checked over by the ambulance and i believe nipped of to Bangor for a nights rest.
Meanwhile........with everyone eventually back down safe at Llanberis, the main event marquee tent had taken on a life of its own, and was about to log a flight plan. We spent the remainder of the night repeatedly banging in pegs.
It was a few weeks later in July that i noticed the post on UK Climbing and put 2/2 together. I believe the climber involved survived his epic on the Troll Wall but at some personal cost. My colleague on Snowdon that night had chatted with the chap we gave assistance to about the current conditions of the Troll, and how bad he thought it was at the time. Andy K seemed to echo his worries in his post in 2006. Reading his recent ‘tweets from the troll’ this year, things haven’t got any less scary.
I was booked to marshal a 3 Peak Event on Snowdon, all was looking good to go until the weather started turning nasty on the Friday. A massive front began moving in from the Atlantic, not boding well for the weekend. The event teams for the Snowdon leg usually start arriving around late afternoon, and attempt Snowdon during the night.
This year the charity had switched the route from the PYG to the Llanberis path, as the cafe at Pen Y Pass was getting a tight for space. The PYG in some ways is an easier route to ‘marshal’ during bad weather as the cwm provides some natural protection from the prevailing winds, at least until you hit the top of the zig zags. The Llanberis path is a motorway but far more open to the elements.
The wind picked up and it started raining in Llanberis but not so bad to cancel the event, the marshals started moving into position an hour before the first teams were due to arrive. There are usually 6 marshals for Snowdon, a head marshal based down in Llanberis, one at the start of the walk just as you come off the track, one at Halfway house, one at Clogwyn Station, one between Coglwyn and the summit to protect the accidental troll over Crib y Ddysgl, finally one at the top. I usually take the top slot. It has it’s +/-, on a good day it’s worth it for the view. If it’s bad weather it can be really bad. We all have radio’s but quite often it’s only the summit marshal who can get decent comm’s with everyone else on the mountain and base. Each team also has a radio for emergency use.
Heading up the track from Halfway to Clogwyn station the full force of the gathering storm started to hit. The wind speed was buffeting between 40 to 50mph and getting stronger as we gained height. Regularly feeding back the developing conditions to base, by the time we got to Clogwyn it had increased to 60-70mph and gusting well above, with driving rain. I headed up further towards the summit with one of the other marshals. The conditions on the mountain were now dangerous, not just for the competitors but also for the marshals, most of who were members of the Llanberis MR team. If you can get a tent up or bury yourself in a KISU then you can ride a storm OK, but to continually be on the lookout for around 40 teams of 5 or 6 people is impossible. Retreating from further up the path, but with some protection from the railway embankment this left 3 of us a Clogwyn with a wait to see if conditions improved, and assist with getting the teams back down safely.
It is usual practice to ‘lower the summit’ or close the event if conditions are this serious. Unable to set up and protect the route passed Clogwyn station we began to turnback teams from there. Most competitors were extremely glad of the decision.
It was at this point, that a call came over the radio from the other marshals lower down the mountain to look out for a lone walker/climber described reported as struggling or looking exhausted somewhere around the Clogwyn station area. After a shouty and windtorn conference between myself and the others, we concluded that we had seen someone earlier who seemed to fit the bill, but with only about 10m of visibility it was difficult to trace which way he was heading or guess where he might by now. A couple of us headed back down towards Halfway and met up with a figure struggling down the path. He was clearly exhausted, after a hot drink and some chocolate we helped him back down towards Llanberis. Offering to pick up his gear we couldn’t believe how much stuff this chap had been hawking around in the storm, heavily sodden ropes, a portaledge, gear and a rucsac plus other packs etc. I could hardly lift the rope bag on its own! It had been his plan that day to solo in practice for an attempt at the Troll Wall, fair play he’d done a good job climbing cloggy but had been eventually taken to task by the atrocious weather conditions. Once down he was checked over by the ambulance and i believe nipped of to Bangor for a nights rest.
Meanwhile........with everyone eventually back down safe at Llanberis, the main event marquee tent had taken on a life of its own, and was about to log a flight plan. We spent the remainder of the night repeatedly banging in pegs.
It was a few weeks later in July that i noticed the post on UK Climbing and put 2/2 together. I believe the climber involved survived his epic on the Troll Wall but at some personal cost. My colleague on Snowdon that night had chatted with the chap we gave assistance to about the current conditions of the Troll, and how bad he thought it was at the time. Andy K seemed to echo his worries in his post in 2006. Reading his recent ‘tweets from the troll’ this year, things haven’t got any less scary.
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