Sunday 9th March - Phew!! so much for the Welsh Winter this year

Llyn Idwal, shining like a national guitar on Sunday. 

Beware, the remaining snow in the gullies may look inviting, but most of the cornices are badly fractured.

Potter over Siabod - Sunday 16th Feb

Daer Ddu & Gully

Cabin fever setting in from all this rain, took advantage of a sunnyish day last Sunday. 


With most 'condition' reports saying it was all a bit slushy an avalanchy, there was still an opportunity to make your own way up on the odd bit of decent snow. 

Brrr...the elusive Welsh Rarebit, or it might be a cat, dunno

Torres del Paine in a pair of Salomon Quest 4D GTX - Review

Not often that I’m moved to write a review... I’ve recently returned home after trekking in the Torres Del Paine, Patagonia. The circular tour AKA the ‘O’ and the ‘W’ is approx 140km in length, and is usually tackled over 10 days.  You encounter entertainingly unpredictable weather conditions and the terrain is varied. The right choice of boot is essential.

Websites and guidebooks have contradictory opinions on what to wear. Some advise you could do it in trainers!, others suggest a well worn in pair of B0 or B1 leather boots, I really wanted something light. I’d not bought a pair of fabric/leather boots for years so was unsure of the latest brand reliabilities reviews etc, the Salomon Quests had been out a while and received rave reviews after their initial launch, later write ups reported leaking Gore-Tex liners and delaminating sole issues, so they weren’t my first choice. However, it was getting quite near the departure date so i was getting a bit concerned about bedding in a pair of new leather boots. My back up was my trusty Scarpa Chamonix’s but i felt they were going to be just too heavy for the trail. I needed something light, waterproof, with plenty of ankle support.

From Seron to Dickinson Refeuge

Refuge Dickinson to Perros Camp lots of woody bits!

The Trail...Anticlockwise, starting the trek from Torres to Seron you're on reasonably good/dryish Pampas (Steppe). From Seron to Dickinson Refeuge you hit a waterlogged flood plain with sodden and badly maintained wooden planking. From Dickinson to Perros and the John Gardner Pass you trek through tortuous forest with tripping tree roots and washed away trails. if you’re lucky you may have a snow free ascent over the John Gardner, for us it was soft fresh snow, waist deep in places with an occasional blizzard. From there on the trail climbs and descends across ravines, scree and  alpine woodland. All this time you’re likely to witness not just 4 seasons in one day, but probably every hour.

Perros camp and the John Gardner Pass, a tad snowy

The odd bit of Via Ferrata

After completing the circuit in a pair of Salomon Quests i can say they performed admirably. Yes they did get damp inside going through the swamps and snow but never ‘squelchy boot full of water’ wet, more like it was wet from foot perspiration and ingress over the top. Taking out the foot-bed they dried quite quickly and were not uncomfortable even when warn damp. The weight was a crucial factor, you need to be able tread lightly and place your feet with small corrective steps through the forests. The sole grip was positive on grass and rock wet or dry. For comparison a colleague on the trek also had a pair of Quest they also performed well so there is some confidence of QC during the manufacture process. Cleaning and examining the boots after the trek i could find no evidence of excessive wear or damage.

This is not an unequivocal endorsement of the boots, as i bought them in Nov 2013 and only used them in North Wales a few times before the trek, but i was relieved to find that they did the job under difficult conditions. 

I’m not under any illusion that the Quests are indestructible and have yet to see how they continue perform over the next few seasons. Salomon offer a 2 year guarantee against a faults.  With the mileage i put in I’ don’t expect them to last more than a couple of years, and they can’t be re-soled like a pair of Vibrams, but I’m converted enough at the moment to put some faith in these hybrid boots, and suffer the comfort and dexterity of lighter feet.

...all for a view worth every step

http://www.salomon.com/uk/

Product Features

•Weight: 1300g

•Waterproof split suede leather outer material

•OrthoLite sockliner

•Molded EVA midsole

Just finished the 'O' and the 'W' in Torres del Paine

Back

 in Calafate for a well earned rest. Trekking in Patagonia is surreal, I haven't yet found words to do the place justice, so will have to ease off on the adjectives for the moment.

Mountain Event Marshalling

Someone requested I re-post my thoughts on Event marshalling...

This isn’t a post about keeping warm while you’re moving; it’s about not getting cold when you’re standing still.



Pitched for a quiet evening before the rush



When am i most often in this situation? Belaying, and Marshalling Mountain Events. Belaying has its upside in that at some point it will be your turn to get moving again. With Marshalling, when it comes to a cold wet night/day on the hills, most have their own personal preferences for keeping dry and warm. Some would argue it’s a lost cause, give themselves up to the elements and settle for a predicable drenching. However; with the abundance of modern kit and forecasting, i think i have eventually maximised my chances, of maintaining some semblance of comfort, balanced against practicality, finally defeating the drowned Day-Glo rat look.

In some cases you’re in position for up to 12 hours and occasionally longer. If you’re lucky you’ll be on a magnificent summit on a glorious summer’s day, not to hot and not to cold. All the competitors are chatty and happy, and you have a continuous brew on the go. The reality is that it will be wet & windy with 10m visibility, the competitors are on their last legs, still relatively cordial but struggling to raise a smile. Ahh happy days...

The likelihood is you’ll get to your marshalling point and the forecast isn't looking good, looks like rain!! I’m not so worried about getting a soaking from a torrential down pour that has a direction and predilection for getting to the ground by the quickest possible means. I’m bugged by that pathetic mizz/drizzle that can’t make its mind up where it wants to go or want it want to be, it just seems to invade every nook and crevice, defying the best available Gore-tex, Event and Nikwax etc on the market.

So what can help…

A fine Snowdon Sunset



Keeping it light and staying warm

Ok i hold my hands up here, the keeping it light bit, yes i did take a portable telly up the top of Snowdon one year, but it was for a World Cup match.

However; stands to reason you don’t want to carry anymore than you need to for an event. So, I take everything i ‘might’ need and pack it in the car, I leave the final decision on what to carry about an hour before I set off up the hill. What to pack is based on the most up to date weather, satellite pics and forecast I can get hold of, from this info you can predict the next 12hrs. Extreme weather will determine if the event will be cancelled delayed or re routed. Over the years i have been on events where we have lowered the Summit due to extreme conditions with winds at 70mph plus. Air born sheep moving horizontally across your field of sight gives you an inkling that the winds picked up a bit.

If you’re looking at a 1hr plus strenuous uphill walk to your marshalling point with a heavy sack, your sweat is going to soak into your first and probably 2^nd layers. I find it a good idea to at least take a dry set of base layers and give yourself a quick once over with the wet wipes, this will help keep you warm. When cold and damp and immobile your core temperature will quickly drop, even on a summers day it’s still surprises quite a few how cold it can get above 3000ft, hot drinks and food will help maintain some warmth, and regular light movement will keep the circulation going. It may look a bit daft but you can also try a few star jumps or sit ups.

Hope for a clear morning

Setting up at your marshalling point

Once in position establish comm’s with your base and other marshals, advise on your status, weather conditions etc. Next, work out the timing for your first expected competitors, do you have enough time to get some shelter organised? If so then set up camp and get a brew on. In poor conditions you will need help the competitors identify you position, spread a spare Hi Vis vest over you rucsac or tent, or if you have one tie it to one of your trekking poles. In the dark, a trail of light sticks usually works. (Don’t forget to collect them up afterwards) If the weather turns really bad and for your own safety you need to tuck in behind a rock of bit of wall to find shelter, let the other marshals and base know that your location is becoming untenable. If it’s too bad for you, then it’s more than likely too dangerous for the competitors, the base marshal will re evaluate the event to meet the conditions.

You will probably have to record and report the timings and status of the competitors or parties. This might sound obvious but don’t forget a pen and paper, keep them in something reasonably waterproof like a map case or small Exped or Outdoor Design bag, it only takes a few seconds when raining for the paper to get damp and fall apart. Also get yourself a routine for recording the info. When your tired at 3am in the morning it can get quite confusing, so I recommend that you log it as it happens rather than wait for a few groups to come and go. Don’t be put off from making groups wait until you have all the info you need. It may be the event policy that the teams must stick together, If individuals within groups are split up, do not let them leave your point until you are satisfied that they are all ok and safe to carry on. The usual things to check on are; do they have enough fluids? Is anybody injured or struggling? Look out for signs of Hyper or Hypothermia. You will need to pass this info onto the next marshal. You will probably be requested to take photos of the teams or individuals, at least this keeps you moving, but don’t do it at the expense of loosing control of the comings and goings at your marshalling point. If you’re offered a spare Mars Bar or chocolate, take it, maybe you’re OK but another team may need it. On a busy weekend it’s extremely likely that there will be more than one major event on the mountain, especially if you’re on one of the 3 Peaks. This can again lead to a hell of a lot of confusion on a summit. I have even broken up a few fights. Don’t be afraid to check and triple check team numbers even if it makes them think you may have gone a bit doolally.

What about shelter?

Small Tent

Terrain permitting i try and get a small tent up, I’ve used a few over the years. If the long range forecast is not looking to bad then I’ve used a half tent or (beach tent style) shelter. They are light around 1kg a really quick to set up. This keeps your stuff out of site and dry from the odd shower. With a few rocks inside they will take a reasonable breeze. They are also quite cheap under £20 so if it gets a battering you not to out of pocket. I would recommend you get one with a zip at the front otherwise they catch the wind like a spinnaker.

A Snowdon Sunrise

The lightweight tents i have used are Macpac Microlight at 1.6kg with a small footprint it will pitch almost anywhere, and allows you to manage proceedings whilst inside the tent. Mountain Equipment Dragonfly 2, just over 2kg, built around a free-standing 3 pole semi-geodesic design that does not rely on pegging for stability. Also has room for your pack. If you can pitch so that the event traffic goes past the fly opening and is 180 degrees to the prevailing wind, you’re in luck. On rocky ground where pegs are useless pin the guylines with available large rocks, when desperate i have even used a few nuts and cams.

KISU or Bothy Bag

I’ve used these over the years, there good for weight at approx 500g or less and usually under £20, at this price you can live with either losing it in a gale or trashing it. Try the JDS bothy bag

http://www.outdoorstore.co.uk/products/bothy%20bags.asp

Bivibag

Good if the weathers not to bad and you can get have to have a couple of ours kip in between events, downside is that they are restrictive if you have to keep getting up and out to redirect stragglers

Cape

Dam well underrated. They will keep off the bulk of the rain and allow a reasonable amount of circulation to reduce condensation, downside is they flap about like a demented seagull in the wind, and turn you into human kite. Not very helpful if you’re marshalling near a potential hazard spot like Clogwyn Station

Toilet tent?

Well i would say no, but i have seen one in use, the good thing is you can stand up in it or even sit on a chair, down side is someone will take a pee in it when you not looking and also they tend to be a bit heavy side 3kg plus.

Umbrella

Read Andy Kirkpatrick Psycovertical http://www.psychovertical.com/?thetruthaboutbreathablewaterproofs

Nothing, Just stand there

Depends on how long you have to do this for, if it’s only a couple of hours it usually not much of a problem even in the worst weather. Good set waterproofs will keep off most of the rain. With a synthetic insulated jacket underneath you also can keep out the cold. Continually moving about keeps the circulation ticking over unless is so bad that you need to duck behind a rock. The problem then is then as I said above, the competitors can’t see you. I have used an old Neoprene Henri Lloyd before this works quite well as by standing around you’re not generating much sweat to build up on the inside. Paramo Nikwax systems are popular, unfortunately i run quite hot and find them a bit too warm for most occasions. So to the Pile/Pertex solutions.

So what’s my current kit?

-Iceberg Merino base layer

-Patagonia Regulator fleece

-Arcteryx Atom synthetic insulated jacket, or if dry but cold Rab Nutrino Down Jacket
-Mountain Equipment Kongur MRT Jacket
-Lowe Alpine Mountain cap or Arcteryx hat
-Mammut Base Jump pants (merino leggings optional)
-PHD Alpamayo salopettes (might be overkill but they are the best i’ve used so far, well made and the bib part keeps the vulnerable zip area dry)
-Sportiva Crest B2 rated boots (Decent amount of thick leather with these babies)
-Berghaus Gore-tex gaiters
-North Face Gore-tex Gloves (pair of thin inner gloves)

.........as you can see no single brand loyalty i’m afraid

-Thermarest Orange Prolite 4 with chair fitting, this is a really useful piece of gear, by slackening the side straps off you can almost lie back enough to get a comfortable quick kip.

The ‘bucket seat’ posture also keeps your back warm.

-Small First Aid kit, or roll of cling film, Compeed blister patches are probably the most useful item in your kit
-Headtorch and spare batteries
-MSR Pocket Rocket Stove, compact and light
-Insulated mug (that’s me)
-Small FM radio, (not too loud of course) on a quiet night the radio can be useful company for also when misty it will also help competitors locate you.

First throws of Winter - 24th November

Couple of pics from today, good light and a cold wind

Snowdon range from Y Garn

A few rays over towards the North Lleyn coast

Climbing Weekend Gritfest - 23-23rd September

It's the last weekends of September, almost the same time as last year. After a couple of dodgy days in the week, the weather turns for the better, a break in the clouds is expected.

The Saturday night curry is marinating, all we have to do is find a place to go. Plan was to follow the weather. After a great weekend at the Gower last year we fancied a bit of Cornish Granite, however by Friday there was still no clear indication from the Met Office as to where was going to be best, Bad weather, a 5hr drive, and the thought of us sitting in a fetid wet tent for 2 days was starting to loose it’s appeal. Lets be realistic we gotta go somewhere a bit closer. Granite…..grinite….grinit….gritit….grit….grit….Fek .Peaks bloody peaks lets go to the bloody peaks stop farting around. Quick find a campsite that allows FIRE, ooooohhh not many, and those that do are too far away. After some mild panic we plumbed for Knotlow farm campsite - http://www.knotlowfarm.co.uk/home £35 per night for 5 of us all in, and you can park by the tent they will even supply fire baskets and wood/charcoal if we need it. Cracking little site, near the village of Flag, it’s got Yurts as well if you like that sort of thing.



Daymo does the lovely ‘Inverted V’

Daymo, Deej got up there on the Friday and pitched the tent, bit of time left in the day for them to get up onto Stanage Popular band do few routes. Few routes ehh… Daymo and Deej only do the lovely ‘Inverted V’ VS 4b and ‘Robin Hood Cave Innominate/Harding's’ HVS 5a. Matt and Len arrive on the Friday evening.

 

Saturday 23rd

Deej is already making a fine go of The Coign HS 4

My plan is to drive up early on the Saturday morning just in time to have a majestic warm bacon butty placed in my hand. Heading out of Leek on the A53 the dopey morning mist is swirling round Hen Cloud. Ramshaw’s razor profile graphically pierces the skyline, Jesus that place can look like the set of ‘Pitch Black’ bbrrrr…all it needs is a Vin Diesel hurting towards me wearin a pair of goggles he found in a cracker. After some serious avoidance driving trying to not run over the scores of rabid DofE candidates piling out of school busses, bang on 9am I’m sitting by the tent eating me butty, mmmmm a well timed breakfast there Lenny boy.

Trying to prize the bits of bacon from between my teeth I inaudibly say “Suppoaws we awt to think about some cliding, eybody gof a pleference”? With no real concise decision and the cloud still a bit undecided, we head off for Hathersage, might get an idea of where’s clear on the way.

After neatly reversing into the car behind, we pop into Outside for a bit of gear perving. Ooooh… lovely shinny precious things. I buy a big Yellow sling and a tay Shirt, as if I aint got enough. At the till, unknown to me, the chaps are all standing behind me in a line with the same bright Orange shirt. “Rob! we all wanna look special like you’se….” It’s still early on an expectedly stressful Saturday morning but the guy behind the till is genuinely laughing.

We drive up towards Stanage, still a fair bit of cloud; no surprise Burbage North is full of groups, so we head back toward Plantation. It’s a good choice, it’s relatively quiet.

Don’t forget the sandwiches. It’s still a bit wet so we warm up on a few V Diffs / Severe.on Fern Crack. Even after a pretty good summer it’s still wet and green. Our attention moves towards Goliath’s Groove. As we arrive Deej is already making a fine go of The Coign HS 4. 

It’s a calf off…..

Damian has a big grin on his face and seems to have stopped climbing, this usually means one of 3 things, 1) He's having a poo, 2) He is teaching a group of pretty girls how to climb, or 3) He has just seen a climbing legend. It’s No 3, in of all the grit joint in all of the peaks Andy Kirkpatrick is climbing here today with Ella & Ewan…. and why not. Deej has just finished ‘Cold Wars’ and having really enjoyed Andy’s infectious humour at one of his climbing road shows, I’ll say it again ‘what a nice bloke he is’. We have a good chat and then shove off further towards Fairy Steps. But not before Damian does his favourite trick of pushing for the BFF photo opportunity. How the hell he gets “Rob, show Andy your calf muscles” into the conversation I still have to remember. The only way to appease Daymo is to let the freak show begin. It’s a calf off….. Andy is much amused and Ella blasts a startled OMG. Ah hemm, put them away now. Still only a few metres away Andy is quite taken by Daymo’s Picnic Basket, an essential piece of kit, fit for purpose.

Deej leading Fairy Steps VS 4

Lunch time….

Len on Living at Speed E1 5b

Tower Face Direct E2 5b

Deej leadingTower Face Direct E2 5b

Damian has made too many Ham & Cucumber sandwiches and he makes me eat another, but full marks for transporting a flappy sandwich up to Deej belaying Len on top of Fairy Steps VS 4. Tis warmin up a bit now. Me and Matt are on Stirup Severe 3c and I finish on Ride Him Cowboy VS 5a and Corduroy VS 4c, Warming up the grades now start rising. Deej gets onto Living at Speed E1 5b, its relatively straight forward but for the life of me I cant reach the final critical hold before the top, its just out of dam reach. Tower Face looms over towards the right. Deej & Daymo have a few bullets left so opt for the 3* Tower Face Direct E2 5b, Daymo gets a couple of pieces of gear in then his blood/sugar reminds him how absolutely very tired he is. Deej racks up, a few metres up and he’s at the E2 crux, tentatively negotiating the awkward moves, he relishes the rewarding gorgeous flake and pop to the top. I get the easier 2^nd and spend a good bit of time retrieving Daymo’s cam. I’m glad I’m on a rope for the E2 Crux but manage it clean. Len repeats. Fair play Deej, a ballsy last route to finish. Curries calling…..



An ernst Matt on Living at Speed E1 5b

The beer then the curry in that order...

With heavy sacks and a lighter picnic basket we head down toward the Plantation car park,

“Recon we’ve earned a beer”

We head for a pint at the Little John http://www.littlejohnhotel.co.uk/ in Hathersage, although i could have stayed for 2 or 3 it’s only quickie as we need to get the curry on. I set the open fire and build the heat, the big pot simmers, the nostrils start to twitch with expectation, chuck the naan on the fire for a few seconds and i can’t wait any longer ooooh yesss...Beef Vindaloo, Deej has

 excelled himself again. Back of the throat.

The night is almost clear with a full moon, letting the food go down looking up at the stars...ahhh can’t beat this. I manage to rouse myself enough to stagger over to the car. I have something that will mellow the evening, a bottle of Penderyn Welsh Whisky. I was bought this for my birthday and thought I’d bring it along for the weekend. “Hello little bottle of Madeira Single Malt http://www.welsh-whisky.co.uk/ are you going to take the pain away from my armies and leggies”? “dwi yn y dŵr y bywyd, yfed i mi” says the little bottle. Oh goody goody.

I feel duty bound to share it with my colleagues. Half a bottle later...

Lookind dup “Now listed everybody, is it the clowds stanning still and the starth and earth movin or other way roun” There are only Four of us round the fire but Len is sure we are Five, there is something moving in the shadows. “Well there may be a schpooky presence but whatever it is its schnot sleeping in my bag, i’m going to sheep” Gooonigh everyone.

 

Sunday 24^th- Froggatt or Birchen?

Chase me

The lads have pitched the tent precisely aligned with the rising sun. The piercing light is almost unbearable...there was a presence last night but i wasn’t very spiritual, it was toxic and probably a fire risk, the tent smells like a pair of culled badgers underpants..... I’m just going for a walk, i may be some time. 



Daymo on Powder Monkey Parade

Me on Ratline HVS 5b,Talk about a high step finish

Len gets the brekky going, nothing like a fry up with a few sticks with crispy wildlife to start the morning. I think the plan is for Froggatt but our timing is a bit out after an extended lie in. Fortunately is looking like a lovely day, unfortunately there has been a mass exodus from Sheffield, and every parking space anywhere near Froggatt has been gobbled up. We don’t fancy a long walk in so head off down to Birchen. The field is open in front of the Robin Hood pub http://www.robinhoodinnbaslow.co.uk/Robin_Hood/Welcome.html we abandon the cars and head for the edge.

Jesus it’s hot, must be up in the mid 20’s. We sweat up a few solo’s on VDiff & Severe, Mast Gully Ridge VDiff , Len & Matt start on Fo’c’sle Crack S4b, Deej and Daymo pootle around on Stokers Wall. Matt and I pop up Trafalgar Crack & Barnacle Bulge HS4c. has some sparse little moves at the top. Daymo & Deej are now onto Powder Monkey Parade S 4b, a lovely traverse. Time to crank things up a bit, Deej & Len lead Top Sail VS 4c, Daymo and I follow. Still mid afternoon and it’s like high summer. Following savage criticism of Saturday’s sandwiches, Daymo has raised his game. Ham and Cheese and just Cheese by itself, with Rocky Road biscuits for pudding, style.

Meanwhile Matt’s looking a shade the colour of his ex AA van, methinks he stood too close to de fire last night. He makes an enforced decision to return to the van as soon as possible, nee even breaking into a run. Andy who popped up with Mickey for a brief climb wants to discus the finer points of the best way home. Unfortunately the awakening UXB in Matt’s belly is now down to the 5 second fuse. Matt abandons courtesies and makes a dash, I’m glad to say there was a happy ending in the toilets of the Robin Hood….

Back on the rock Len & Deej are up for a couple of last climbs. Len & Daymo do Sail Buttress HS4c, Deej goes for Ratline HVS 5b,Talk about a high step finish, Len & I follow on 2^nd, this seemingly not too bad HVS takes a fair bit of grunt. Game over we’re heading back.

Stiperstones - Sunday 8th September

Crap weather in Wales is a good excuse for getting up late on a Sun, not been out to the Stiperstones for a while, only about an hour away so worth it to fit in a quick walk in between the showers. Some big clouds brewing so perfect for a bit of drama.
Quite a few local legends about this place, link below will explain better than me, but it's not to hard to let your imagination amble off when the weathers up for for a turn on these hills.
http://www.shropshiregallery.co.uk/legends/wildedric.html 

Bimble 'n' boulder on the Roaches - 2nd September

Jelly Roll

Boulders by Doxys

After an epic End of the Road Festival, I took a Monday of to recover. This place never fails to impress in all weather, Monday was one of those balmy last few days of summer. But on a misty damp day, if anyone can remember the aussie movie 'Picnic at Hanging Rock' then conjuring up the  atmosphere won't do your nerves any good. All I intended to do was bimble around and take a few snaps maybe a bit of a lazy boulder. I wanted try out some HDR on grit.



Classic shot with climber finishing Dolorosa

Sloth etc